Not all of the advice we see on the Internet is actually good for the skin, and even more so, there are absolutely harmful trends. Just think of the fashion for brown tanning or overinflated lips with fillers. But there are procedures, the benefits of which are proven. But do not try to do them yourself, no matter what they advise on social networks.
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Such is the case with dermaplaning, a cosmetic technique that gives the face a shiny and clean look, but in the long run can bring very complicated (and expensive to treat) problems. I’ll tell you what you need to know about the benefits of dermaplaning and why you shouldn’t do it yourself.
What is dermaplaning and why has it become so popular?
Dermaplaning is a cosmetic cleansing technique that involves removing the outer layer of skin with a special exfoliating razor to remove all dead cells, impurities and facial hair.
Dermaplaning has literally become an obsession for many and has flooded TickTock and Instagram. It’s a favorite procedure of many famous beauty influencers (such as Jacqueline Hill) in addition to impressive results that are visible to the naked eye.
Dermaplaning is not a new invention. This popular method has existed for decades, and even celebrities such as Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor have used it in practice.
For example, the Otolaryngologic Clinics of North America used dermaplaning’s effectiveness in fighting facial spots back in 1980 along with other non-invasive therapies, including chemical peels and liquid nitrogen treatment.
With dermaplaning, people exfoliate their skin, getting rid of dirt and fine hair, better known as peach fuzz.
The technique differs from dermabrasion, in which a cosmetologist or doctor uses a high-speed rotating brush to exfoliate the skin. Dermaplaning uses a scalpel or a special instrument, the dermatome. The doctor or cosmetologist moves the dermatome, which looks like an electric razor, back and forth to literally scrape off the top layer of dead skin.
Advantages of dermaplaning
Exfoliation and hair removal make the skin more radiant, fresh looking and smooth. The procedure can soften fine lines and wrinkles, reduce hyperpigmentation or uneven tone. Dermaplaning is also used to treat deep acne scars.
In addition, the absence of downy facial hair makes it easier to apply makeup: hairs tend to trap concealers and dry tone-leveling products, creating slight unevenness and shadows.
How well does it work? The actual result depends on your skin type, tone and history. And, of course, the skill of the person performing the procedure and the quality of the tool.
According to the study (Aesthetic Plastic Surgery), there is no scientific evidence that dermaplaning actually works. However, the authors emphasize that it’s probably a matter of lack of attention and a database of results. So, the scientists suggest to be guided by subjective feelings – if your skin looks better after dermaplaning, it might be your method!
Risks and side effects of dermaplaning
Most people have almost no irritation or negative skin reactions to a properly performed procedure. Short-term side effects may include:
- Redness and swelling of the skin.
- Soreness and sensitivity.
- A burning or tingling sensation for 48 hours after the procedure.
Experts say that, contrary to fears, down hairs will not grow longer, thicker or darker after dermaplaning. However, it all depends on testosterone levels and individual characteristics: some people do experience excessive hair growth above the upper lip, on the chin and cheeks, especially closer to the temples. Therefore, pay attention to exactly how your skin reacts to dermaplaning!
The procedure is not recommended for inflammatory skin conditions such as:
- Acne;
- Rosacea;
- Psoriasis;
- Eczema.
In addition, like any procedure that removes the top layer of skin, dermaplaning can get rid of your tan.
If you are being treated for acne with systemic medications, dermaplaning is not recommended for six months at the end of treatment.
What are the dangers of dermaplaning at home?
Do-it-yourself dermaplaning kits and tools are available online and at drugstores. But because you are using a very sharp blade, you can cut your skin. And that’s not the most dangerous consequence.
Social media promotes dermaplaning for use at home, unsupervised and with your own hands, which leaves your skin sensitive, reddened and completely exposed.
When the skin does not have a strong protective barrier, it is more susceptible to damage from the sun and the environment.
Because of the mass of videos, dermaplaning is considered a simple and safe procedure, and many are tempted to do it themselves and not waste time and money on a trip to the salon. Although there are many ways to improve the condition of the skin at home, which is recommended by experts, it is this procedure we do not recommend doing at home. Why?
It is necessary to understand that, in addition to irritation of the face, the skin is much more deeply damaged. The skin consists of three layers (epidermis, derma and hypodermis), and the skin barrier is most exposed to external influences and is “ripped off” during dermaplaning.
And it is this layer that is responsible for maintaining natural hydration and protection against external aggressors. If the technique of dermaplaning is not correct, the skin becomes thinner, weaker, dry, cracked, inflamed, susceptible to irritation, blemishes, premature aging and enlarged pores appear. You may not notice all this after the first treatments, but eventually the skin will start to suffer and the result will not be happy.
Dermaplaning infatuation causes compensatory hyperkeratosis, in which the skin begins to protect itself from excessive damage and becomes coarser and thicker.
How can I get dermaplaning without damaging my skin?
Before you think about buying a special dermaplaning razor and investing in a kit to use it at home, it’s best to consult a dermatologist who can tell you where the procedure is best done or recommend alternatives that work even better. These include laser hair removal, acid peels, hyaluronic acid applications and more.
Expert Commentary
Brunilda Nazario, MD
This procedure is performed in specialized clinics and salons by a dermatologist to remove those fine hairs that may be bothering you, both on the face and on the contour of the facial oval, and to make the surface look cleaner, smoother, more uniform, more refined, almost like applied makeup.
How to prepare for dermaplaning?
- It’s best to avoid exfoliating your skin for 3 days before the procedure. Direct sunlight and tanning should also be avoided.
- You don’t need to sit at home for your skin to heal. But experts recommend using a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least SPF 30, followed by a moisturizer. All because your skin will be more sensitive after dermaplaning.
- You can do dermaplaning every 3 to 4 weeks. But it’s important to remember that it won’t get rid of all acne scars or stop aging. Make an appointment with your dermaplaner if you are concerned about the condition of your skin.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT THE BENEFITS OF DERMAPLANING
How does the dermaplaning procedure work?
In dermaplaning, disinfection and preparation for the procedure are important to avoid bacteria and inflammation. Make sure you go to a knowledgeable professional before trying the procedure.
After preparation, the cosmetic surgeon gently drives the scalpel over your face for about 15 to 30 minutes. It feels like a mild scrubbing. If everything is done correctly, you will simply remove the downy hair and the top layer of epidermis, which consists mostly of dead cells.
Cosmetologists do not recommend doing the procedure yourself. But if you do decide, be careful. As you have already realized, the blade for home dermaplaning is not as sharp as the professional one, so you should not press and press on the skin so as not to cut yourself.
How do I take care of my skin after dermaplaning?
Since the skin barrier becomes more vulnerable after shaving your facial hair, it’s worth applying proper care after the procedure. For example, a mask with hyaluronic acid and a nourishing cream.
Also the skin becomes more susceptible to the sun, so do not forget about the cream with SPF.
Who shouldn’t get dermaplaning?
You shouldn’t shave your face if you have inflammation, keratosis, eczema, rosacea or herpes. Also, dermaplaning is unlikely to be suitable for girls with sensitive skin.
I recently tried dermaplaning, and I’m absolutely thrilled with the results! My skin feels incredibly smooth and looks radiant. Not only did it remove dead skin cells and peach fuzz, but it also allowed my skincare products to penetrate better. I highly recommend dermaplaning to anyone looking for a quick and effective way to achieve a fresh, glowing complexion.